Stairs & Stair Parts

Build a Staircase Using Stair Parts Made Here in Utah

Whether you are building a new staircase, fixing your stairs, or updating your stair parts during a remodel, our expansive stair parts collection was made with you in mind. From the perfect iron balusters to custom stair shoes, our stairs and stair parts division has brought together the best options to make your staircase a masterpiece. Let us help you create the perfect Utah home with the staircase it deserves.

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Stair Parts 101

Stair parts vocabulary have you confused? Don’t be. Use this brief glossary to help you order the stair parts you need for your project.

Baluster – The thin vertical spindles that support the staircase railing.

Balustrade – Assembly of the balusters, newels and handrail.

Gooseneck – A handrail fitting with a vertical ‘goose neck’ shape, generally used to transition to a balcony or landing.

Handrail – The railing that sits atop the balusters, made to hold on to when using the stairs.

Newel – Major support posts for the balustrade system. These support posts are larger than the balusters, and are generally placed at the top and bottom of the balustrade, or where there is a turn in the handrail.

Nose – The front lip of the tread. This part of the tread generally hangs over the riser by an inch or so.

Riser – The vertical piece of the stair which supports the treads. Rise height is measured from the top of one tread to the next.

Rosette – A decorative stair part, usually wood that is placed on where a handrail meets a wall

Run – The measurement of the horizontal stair piece (tread) from riser to riser minus any nose hangover. Total run constitutes the length of the entire staircase.

Shoe – Decorative piece placed at the bottom of each baluster to add a finished look to the balustrade.

Skirting – Board that runs along the wall at foot level on the stairs, providing the trim.

Tread – The horizontal piece of the stair, or portion you step on when going up or down the staircase.

Volute – The beginning portion of the handrail that sits on top of a newel and spirals in on itself. Used at the start of an over-the-post staircase.

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Stair Remodel and Repair

Are you ready to tackle a staircase repair or remodel project? Use Sunroc stair parts and these tips from our experts to help you get the results you’re hoping for.

  • Fixing a squeaky step: First identify where within the step the noise is coming from. Usually, either the tread is knocking or rubbing against the riser board, the tread has come loose from the stringer or both. If this is the problem, simply refasten the tread to its underlying structure at the source of the squeak. We recommend having someone assist you by standing with one foot on either side of the stringer, then nailing at 45 degree angles into the stringer on both sides to ensure the stair does not loosen. Then, simply cover up the new nail holes with wood putty. Or, if your staircase is carpeted, simply replace the carpet over your work. If you can see the issue from underneath your stairs, you can use a shim, a small wedge of wood that is narrower at its tip than at its base, to fill the gap. Gently slide the shim between the tread and the stringer until it’s tight.
  • Fixing a loose baluster: Don’t let a loose baluster become a safety threat in your home. Baluster fixes are usually a simple job that can be accomplished in just a few minutes without having to buy new stair parts. One easy fix is to drive a thin, glue coated wood wedge into the gap at its top or bottom, then trim the wedge flush and sand down to match the baluster. A second option is to drill a hole at an angle and drive a screw through the baluster into the handrail. Countersink the screw and cover it with wood putty.
  • Replacing a baluster: Replacing old or broken wooden balusters is an easy way to update the look of your staircase without too much effort. You’ll need a reciprocating saw to cut the old baluster in two, and a pipe wrench to twist it out (if it’s doweled).  Drill a hole in the top and bottom of the new baluster, put wood glue in the holes and place a dowel in each end. Allow the glue to dry. Now, cut down the dowels to ¼ inch on each side. Put wood glue in the original stair tread and banister holes and then insert the new baluster, tread end first. Replacing wood balusters with iron balusters is a popular do-it-yourself project. Installing iron balusters into a previously wood-only staircase may require a little help. Contact Sunroc for help with ordering and installation.

*Instructions are not fully inclusive. Please contact a Utah professional for assistance with any staircase project.